Garment care

No Need To Guess.
Decode Your Care Labels.

Those little symbols on your clothing tags aren't decoration — they're instructions. Here's exactly what every one of them means, so your clothes last as long as they should.

Laundry care symbols guide for t-shirts and apparel

Your Clothes Are Talking. Are You Listening?

Every garment you own has a care label — a small tag with a set of universally recognized symbols that tell you exactly how to wash, dry, iron, and bleach it. Ignore them and you're gambling. Sure, here at CheapesTees we carry mostly basic apparel, but you can use this handy guide for any clothing items you own.

The good news: once you know the system, it takes about five seconds to read a tag correctly. The symbols follow a consistent logic, and they're governed by an international standard — ISO 3758 — which means the same icons appear on garments made around the world. There are four core categories you'll encounter on everyday apparel, each with its own base shape, and everything else is a variation on those four.

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Washing

A washtub with a wavy line. Tells you whether to machine wash, hand wash, or avoid water entirely — and at what temperature.

Bleaching

A triangle. An empty triangle means any bleach is fine. Lines inside restrict you to non-chlorine only. An X means no bleach at all.

Drying

A square — with a circle inside for tumble drying, or lines and dots for air-dry methods. Dots inside the circle indicate heat level.

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Ironing

Looks exactly like a small iron. Dots inside indicate the maximum safe temperature. An X through it means put the iron away.

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Fabric Type

Not a symbol, but just as important. Cotton, poly, and blends each have different tolerances for heat, agitation, and bleach.

The X Rule

Universal across all categories — a line or X through any symbol means "do not do this." No exceptions.

US vs. International labels In the US, washing temperatures inside the tub icon are shown as dots — more dots mean hotter water. In Europe and most of the rest of the world, the actual temperature in °C is printed inside the tub instead. If you're buying imported garments, that number inside the washtub is the max temperature, not a dot count.

The Full Breakdown

Here's every major symbol category explained in plain language — what the shape means, what the variations mean, and what happens if you ignore them.

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Washing Symbols
Base shape: washtub

The washtub is your starting point. If it appears plain with no lines underneath, the item can be machine washed on a normal cycle at whatever temperature the dots indicate. One line underneath means use a permanent press cycle — medium agitation, designed to limit wrinkling on synthetic and blended fabrics. Two lines means delicate or gentle cycle — minimal agitation, slow spin, cooler water.

A hand reaching into the tub means hand wash only, or at most a machine's hand-wash setting, at or below 40°C/105°F. A tub with an X through it means no washing at all — water will damage the fabric. Spot clean only, or consult a professional.

1 dot — cold (up to 30°C / 85°F) 2 dots — warm (up to 40°C / 105°F) 3 dots — hot (up to 60°C / 140°F)
Drying Symbols
Base shape: square

A square with a circle inside means you can tumble dry. Dots inside the circle indicate heat level: one dot for low heat, two dots for medium/normal heat. No dot means no heat — air-only tumble. A circle inside a square with an X through the whole thing means keep it out of the dryer entirely.

Squares without a circle are air-dry instructions. A single horizontal line through the middle of the square means dry flat — lay it on a clean surface and let gravity do the rest, which is critical for items that can stretch out of shape if hung. A curved line at the top of the square means hang to dry. Two diagonal lines in the corner mean dry in the shade, away from direct sunlight. Each variation matters: hang-drying a sweater that should be dried flat will stretch it out; machine drying something that should air-dry can cause permanent shrinkage.

Bleaching Symbols
Base shape: triangle

Bleach is powerful — it whitens, brightens, and disinfects. It also destroys fabric when used on the wrong garment. The triangle tells you what's safe. An empty triangle means any bleach, including chlorine bleach, is fine. Two diagonal lines inside the triangle means non-chlorine (oxygen) bleach only — chlorine will damage the dye or fiber. A triangle with an X means no bleach of any kind.

The key thing most people miss: a white garment does not automatically mean bleach-safe. Always check the triangle before reaching for the bottle. Fabrics like wool, silk, spandex, and many synthetics can be permanently damaged or yellowed by chlorine bleach even when the garment looks like it should be able to take it.

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Ironing Symbols
Base shape: iron silhouette

The iron icon uses the same dot system as washing. One dot means low heat — around 110°C (230°F), used for delicate fabrics like silk, nylon, and some acrylics. Two dots means medium heat — around 150°C (300°F), suitable for wool, polyester, and blends. Three dots means high heat — up to 200°C (390°F), safe for cotton and linen. An iron with an X means do not iron at all.

There are also steam-specific variations: an iron with steam lines and an X through them means no steam even if ironing is otherwise fine — some finishes and fabrics are damaged by moisture. If you're dealing with a garment that can't be ironed, a handheld steamer is often a safe alternative, since it applies heat without direct contact or pressure.

Important note for decorated apparel: The "Do Not Iron" symbol on many Gildan, Hanes, and Bella+Canvas blanks refers to the decoration or print — not the garment itself. Ironing directly over screen printing, heat transfers, or embroidery can cause cracking, peeling, or flattening of the design. Always iron these garments inside out, or use a pressing cloth between the iron and the print.

1 dot — low, 110°C / 230°F 2 dots — medium, 150°C / 300°F 3 dots — high, 200°C / 390°F
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General Fabric Care
Base principle: fabric type determines everything

Different fabrics behave very differently in the wash, and understanding your fabric is just as important as reading the symbols. Cotton is the most forgiving — it handles warm water and medium heat well, though 100% cotton will shrink if you push temperatures too high. Pre-shrunk cotton like you'll find on most Gildan, Hanes, and Bella+Canvas garments has already been through that process, but repeated hot washing can still cause gradual shrinkage over time.

Polyester and poly-blend fabrics — including 50/50 cotton-poly t-shirts and moisture-wicking performance polos — are much more heat-sensitive. High dryer temperatures degrade the fibers, break down moisture-wicking treatments, and can cause pilling over time. Cold wash and low heat drying extends the life of these garments significantly.

Blended fabrics follow the rules of their most delicate ingredient. A 60/40 cotton-poly blend should be treated closer to polyester care guidelines than pure cotton ones. When in doubt, default to cold water and low heat — it's almost never the wrong call, regardless of what's in the fabric.

Dark and bright colors need extra attention regardless of fabric type. The dye used to achieve deep blacks, navys, reds, and bright colors is more prone to bleeding and fading in warm or hot water, especially in the first several washes. Always wash darks in cold water, and wash them separately or with like colors until you're confident the dye has fully set.


Cheat Sheet

Save this table or print it out and keep it in your laundry room. It covers the most common symbols you'll run into on everyday t-shirts, sweatshirts, and other apparel.

Symbol What It Looks Like What It Means
Machine wash normal Tub, no lines under Regular cycle, check dots for temp
Permanent press Tub with one line Medium agitation, reduces wrinkles
Delicate cycle Tub with two lines Gentle wash, slow spin, cool water
Hand wash Tub with a hand Hand wash only, max 40°C / 105°F
Do not wash Tub with X No water — spot clean only
Tumble dry low Square + circle + 1 dot Dryer OK, low heat setting
Tumble dry normal Square + circle + 2 dots Dryer OK, medium/normal heat
Do not tumble dry Square + circle with X No dryer — air dry only
Dry flat Square with horizontal line Lay on a flat surface to dry
Hang to dry Square with curved top line Hang on a line or hanger to dry
Bleach allowed Empty triangle Any bleach is safe
Non-chlorine bleach only Triangle with two diagonal lines Oxygen/color-safe bleach only
Do not bleach Triangle with X No bleach of any kind
Iron low heat Iron with 1 dot 110°C / 230°F max — silk, nylon
Iron medium heat Iron with 2 dots 150°C / 300°F max — wool, poly, blends
Iron high heat Iron with 3 dots 200°C / 390°F max — cotton, linen
Do not iron Iron with X No iron — use steamer if needed
100% cotton Fabric label / content tag Warm wash OK, medium dry — watch for shrinkage at high heat
Poly & blends 50/50 or performance fabric label Cold wash, low heat dry — high heat degrades fibers and wicking

Make Your Clothes Last Longer

Reading the symbols is step one. Here's how to put that knowledge into practice and get more life out of every t-shirt and sweatshirt in your closet.

  • Sort laundry by care requirements, not just color. Mixing a delicate-cycle item with a normal-cycle load can cause damage even if the colors are compatible.
  • When in doubt, always go cooler. Cold water and low heat are almost never wrong. High heat and hot water are where damage happens.
  • Tag gone or unreadable? For cotton and cotton-blend t-shirts and sweatshirts, cold water on a permanent press cycle and low-heat drying will handle most situations safely.
  • Polyester and moisture-wicking fabrics hate high dryer heat — it degrades the fibers and kills the wicking performance over time. Low heat or air dry is always the better call.
  • Graphic tees and decorated apparel benefit from being turned inside out before washing. It protects the print surface from friction and extends the life of screen-printed, DTG, and embroidered designs.
  • Wash dark colors in cold water to prevent fading — the dye is more likely to bleed in warm or hot water, especially in the first several washes.
  • Skip the fabric softener on moisture-wicking performance shirts — it coats the fibers and reduces their ability to pull sweat away from the body.
  • Air drying is always gentler than machine drying, regardless of fabric. If you have time, hang or lay flat to dry — your clothes will last noticeably longer.
  • Stains set with heat — never put a stained garment in the dryer until the stain has been treated and washed out. Heat will bond the stain permanently to the fabric.
  • For items you're unsure about, a mesh laundry bag adds an extra layer of protection against snags, stretching, and abrasion in both the washer and dryer.
For custom printed & embroidered apparel Newly decorated garments — whether screen printed, heat transferred, DTG printed, or embroidered — need a little extra care in the first few washes. Turn the garment inside out, wash cold, and tumble dry on low heat. Freshly cured inks and heat transfers are most vulnerable to cracking or peeling when exposed to high dryer temperatures in the first several washes. After that, following the base fabric's care label is all you need to keep your custom apparel looking great wash after wash.

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